This is a review of how I repacked my Vance & Hines Classic II slipon exhaust for the '94 and later Honda Magna.

NOTE The Superwool flaked apart and got blown out of the exhaust. In less than 2000 miles one of the pipes had absolutely none left inside. Thus I do NOT recommend using Superwool for exhaust repacking. It doesn't melt, but it flakes apart and blows out.
I repacked again with standard R30 from the hardware store. Hopefully, this will last a bit longer...
Also V&H has a repack kit, part # 16106 for about $8 each. You need 4 of them to repack this exhaust. They recommend repacking every year or 10,000 miles.

Overview

The Vance & Hines exhaust needs to be repacked periodically. It is a glasspack design that uses fiberglass packing which eventually gets oil soaked, burns up, blasts out, or diminshes in various other forms its capacity to attenutate the exhaust sound. I recently repacked mine and here is my experience:

Safety

Use gloves and a mask when handling fiberglass. It will give off tiny splinters which you do NOT want in your hands or your lungs.

Results

Here are some sound bites so you know what to expect. Both were recorded using a dynamic studio microphone at the same distance, orientation and recording level. Each is a CD quality recording: 44.1 kHz, 16 bit, mono. They are about 1-2 MB each in size.

Here is what the V&H exhaust sounds like with no baffles.
Here is what it sounds like with baffles freshly packed with superwool 607: packed baffles.

Unfortunately, I didn't record it with the OEM packing. The difference with superwool was noticeable but not huge. It was a little deeper and rumbly, slightly less noisy and obnoxious.

Getting Started

I used Superwool 607 Max Blanket "S", which is a ceramic based extreme high temperature insulating material. It is rated for continuous use up to 2300* F and melts at 2800* F. This is about TWICE the temperature rating of normal fiberglass - which MELTS at 1400* F and its continuous use rating is even lower. The idea behind using this stuff is that with its extreme temperature rating it is not going to melt or burn up in the exhaust, so it should last longer. So where do you get this stuff? Turns out it's used as an insulator for pottery kilns. I got mine from Seattle Pottery Supply. They had prompt and reliable service; the UPS man delivered it to my door 3 days after I ordered it. It cost $4.25 per square foot and I bought 8 square feet.

How much do you need? It comes in rolls 2' wide, with thickness of 1", 1.5" or 2". You need a 4' long roll, 1" thick. This is a little more than you need so you have a safety margin.

Procedure

Remove the old baffles. Each has 2 4mm allen bolts 90* apart from each other. You will have to loosen the exhaust mounting bolts and pull the pipes outward to access the inner bolts. Remove those bolts, then grab the end of the baffle and pull it straight back and out. You may have to twist a little or tap it with a rubber mallet to break it free.

Now cut sections from the superwool blanket. Cut them 12-13" long and 11-12" wide. The long side goes along the length of the baffle, the short side wraps around it. Wrap each snugly around the baffle and then tape the ends so the stay wrapped. The tape may burn up and melt when you run the bike... that's OK it won't hurt anything.

Now that all 4 of the baffles are wrapped, slide them back into the pipes. It should be a snug fit, but not super tight, as the baffle slides in. If it's too tight or too loose you'll have to rewrap the baffle adding or removing packing material. As you insert the baffles, make sure the 2 nuts on the baffle end cap are lined up with the bolt holes on the pipe. Rotate them a little while sliding so the superwool doesn't bunch up or stick. When each baffle gets within about 1" of being fully inserted, it will stop. That's OK, you'll fix that in a moment... just get all 4 in for now.

Next is the tricky part: getting the baffles that last 1" to seat properly in the pipe. The baffle's cylindrical end which goes into the pipe, goes AROUND another slightly smaller cylinder inside the pipe. The only way you get it in that last 1" is to get the two cylinders to match up perfectly. I found the best way to do this was to stick a thick wooden shovel handle into the baffle, then leverage the handle around at various angles while rotating the baffle back & forth and pushing until it "pops" and slides on. Usually, the baffle droops a little as it goes in so you're trying to leverage downward on the shovel handle to raise the inner end of the baffle.

Now rotate each baffle until the nuts match the exhaust pipe bolt holes. Reinstall all 8 allen bolts to secure the baffles. Retighten all the exhaust mounting bolts that you had to loosen to access the allen bolts. When doing this, ensure that the exhaust headers are fully seated flush against the engine block.

Now make sure the area behind the bike is clear and fire up the engine. Listen for leaks (which will add a raspy tone to the exhaust). You should hear a throaty rumbly type of sound. Rev the engine a few times and you will see crud flying out the exhaust pipes. This is just blasting out any loose packing material. This will happen for a minute or so and then it should stop.

Now you're done. Enjoy the sound! Your repack with superwool should last a LONG time.
NOTE: unfortunately, it will not. See note above.