Category Archives: Tech

LineageOS: Home Screen Setup

LineageOS is the open source version of Android. Combined with OpenGApps, it has all the functionality of Android, without any of the bloat-ware, crapplets or customized skins that manufacturers and carriers add to Android. And, it’s supported by a community of developers so you can get the latest version of Android on your device long after the manufacturer abandons it to planned obsolescence.

The LineageOS home screen launcher is called Trebuchet. It is more configurable than most stock ROMs. There’s a particular setup I like that combines a dark background (which saves battery on OLED screens) with big icons. Setting this up is simple:

First, long-touch a blank spot on the home screen. The home setup screen appears. Your icons will be different from shown, but the bottom area will be the same with the WALLPAPERS, triple-dot button, and WIDGETS:


Touch WALLPAPERS in the lower left. A screen like below will appear asking you how you want to pick wallpaper. Pick the one circled in RED:


A screen like below appears asking which wallpaper you want. Pick the one shown below:


A screen appears asking where you want to use this wallpaper. I usually pick both home screen and lock screen:


Next, we’ll tell the home screen to use large icons. So go back to the home screen and long-touch a blank spot again to get the home setup screen. Then touch the triple-dot button:


The following menu will appear. You can set a bunch of stuff here; icon size is at the bottom:


Cool Mouse Stuff with Linux

Linux has built-in tools for programming the buttons on your mouse or trackball. You don’t need any drivers or proprietary software. Just a few simple tools you can install from the repos. I’m doing this on Ubuntu 16 and 18, but it should work on any recent Linux distro.

First, use xev to detect how your system is recognizing the mouse buttons. Start xev from a command prompt, then hover over its window, click each button, and look at the text in the command prompt window. This will tell you the # for each button. The first 3 buttons are always defined the same way: left-click is button 1, middle-click 2, right-click 3. Extra buttons are “non-standard” and can be defined in any way.

To change what a button does, use xbindkeys. Its control script is a file in your home directory called .xbindkeysrc. The app xte fabricates keystrokes and mouseclicks.

For example: here’s an .xbindkeysrc that does 2 things:

  • Single click of button 2 (middle button) causes double-click of button 1 (left)
  • Single click of button 9 causes Control-click of button 1.
# button 2 (scroll wheel) is double click
"/usr/bin/xte 'mouseclick 1' 'mouseclick 1'"
b:2 + release

# button 9 (upper left alternate) is control + left click
"/usr/bin/xte 'keydown Control_L' 'mouseclick 1' 'keyup Control_L'"
b:9 + release

This should work everywhere in all apps. It does work in some apps (like Thunar), but not in others (like Firefox). I wondered – why?

Limitation 1

After experimenting, I discovered that xte is too fast for some apps. I added a few strategically located brief (10 ms) delays and it worked everywhere.

Example: change the above to this:

# button 2 (scroll wheel) is double click
"/usr/bin/xte 'mouseclick 1' 'usleep 10000' 'mouseclick 1'"
b:2 + release

# button 9 (upper left alternate) is control + left click
"/usr/bin/xte 'keydown Control_L' 'mousedown 1' 'usleep 10000' 'mouseup 1' 'keyup Control_L'"
b:9 + release

The usleep param is in microseconds, so 10,000 is 10 milliseconds. This now works in all apps.

Limitation 2

Another limitation: it’s hard to make the same button duplicate itself from xbindkeys. If you do this, it can lead to infinite loops. For example: xbindkeys can easily make a single click of button 2, cause a double-click of button 1. But xbindkeys can’t make a single click of button 1, cause a double-click of the same button. This will fail or cause an infinite loop.

For that, use imwheel. Originally intended to adjust the sensitivity of the scroll wheel, it is also useful for other things. This is because internally, a scroll wheel is just 2 buttons: up and down. To make it more sensitive, imwheel duplicates each click of those buttons. But imwheel can do this with any buttons, not just the scroll wheel. Its config file is .imwheelrc, in your home directory.

Here’s an imwheel config that doubles the scroll wheel sensitivity:

# Apply to all apps (individual apps can be customized)
# Amplify scroll up/down
None,    Up,    Button4,    2
None,    Down,    Button5,    2
# Amplify scroll left/right
None,    Left,    Button6,    10
None,    Right,    Button7,    10

On my trackball, the scroll wheel is Button 4 and Button 5. The scroll wheel tilts L and R; these are buttons 6 and 7. Yours may be different; check it with xev.

Elecom Trackball, IOGear GCS1102 KVM Switch, Ubuntu 18

My Logitech Trackman thumb trackball is so old it has a PS/2 plug. Its buttons are finally starting to fail and I needed to replace it. But Logitech doesn’t make wired trackballs anymore. I must have wired because (1) I use an IOGear GCS1102 KVM Switch, and (2) I prefer the instantaneous smoother response of wired devices.

I Googled around and discovered the Elecom M-XT3URBK, worth a try. At first it didn’t work. On a whim, I checked my GCS1102 (open a text editor, hit Ctrl-F12, press F4, and it prints its settings) and found it was in mouse emulation mode. I disabled mouse emulation mode (Ctrl-F12, press m) and the Elecom worked perfectly. Xev detected all buttons except the far right, which I don’t need anyway.

Good stuff:

  • Tracks at least as well (smooth, fast, accurate) as the Logitech Marble
  • Switch-adjustable DPI (low is still pretty high and works best)
  • Buttons
    • Standard L and R
    • Scroll wheel clicks like a button (without occasionally moving, like the Logitech did)
    • Scroll wheel clicks L and R to scroll horizontally
    • Two small buttons to the L of the L button
  • It’s comfortable to use
  • Elecom makes a mirror image left-handed version
  • Price: only $40 – half Logitech’s prices!

Bad stuff:

  • The cable is a bit on the short side, but still long enough I didn’t need an extension.
  • It’s a bit small for my large hands

So far, no problem. It works, scroll wheel and all buttons, without any drivers. Just plug and play. But there’s more…


The Elecom is so much more sensitive than my old Logitech, I had to turn down the settings. But with the GCS1102’s mouse emulation disabled, every time I switch, each computer sees the mouse being un-plugged and re-plugged. When this happens, Ubuntu doesn’t restore the mouse settings. When I switch away and back, the mouse is back to its hyper-sensitive default setting.

I wrote a shell script /apps/bin/ that uses xinput to set the mouse:

#!/usr/bin/env bash
# The UI for setting mouse track speed in Ubuntu 18 is broken.
# Do it manually here
# NOTE: as of June 2018, the mouse was device 12.
# You can check this with: xinput --list --short
# To show device settings: xinput --list-props 12

echo "`date`, $USER, $DISPLAY, $XAUTHORITY" >> /apps/bin/mouse.log

if [ -z "$1" ]
if [ -z "$2" ]
if [ -z "$3" ]
    d="`xinput | grep Mouse | grep pointer | cut -f 2 | cut -c4-5`"

aprop=`xinput --list-props $d | grep 'Accel Speed (' | cut -f2 | cut -c23-25`
if ! [ -z "$aprop" ]
    xinput set-prop $d $aprop "$a"
mprop=`xinput --list-props $d | grep 'Coordinate Transform' | cut -f 2 | cut -c35-37`
if ! [ -z "$mprop" ]
    xinput set-prop $d $mprop "$m", 0.0, 0.0, 0.0, "$m", 0.0, 0.0, 0.0, 1.0

echo "`date` Mouse set up $a $m $d" >> /apps/bin/mouse.log
xinput --list-props "$d" >> /apps/bin/mouse.log

But I don’t want to have to run this script every time I switch the GCS1102. The Linux Udev system should do the job!


First, I needed a Udev rule to trigger my script. The rule must detect the USB device being plugged in, so I need its vendor and product IDs. To get these, run lsusb:

Bus 003 Device 122: ID 056e:00fb Elecom Co., Ltd

Now add a Udev rule. Mine was /etc/udev/rules.d/61-elecom-mouse.rules:

SUBSYSTEM=="usb", ATTR{idVendor}=="056e", ATTR{idProduct}=="00fb", ACTION=="add", RUN+="/apps/bin/"

But it didn’t work. The script was running (I could see the log entry it creates). But the mouse sensitivity wasn’t being set.


My first thought was that the Udev event was firing before the device was registered and ready to be configured. So I added a sleep to the command. But, you can’t sleep while Udev is running your command. So I had Udev run a script that returns immediately, while sleeping a few seconds then running setMouse. A command like this:

(sleep 3 ; /apps/bin/ &

But that didn’t work. It worked from the command line, but when run from Udev, the background was ignored and Udev waited for the entire time. That’s bad for 2 reasons: (1) hangs Udev for 3 seconds, (2) Udev is still waiting, so the sleep is pointless because the device won’t be ready until Udev is done.

In short, Udev is too smart by half. I needed a way to trick Udev into returning immediately, while my script pauses a few seconds then runs. I found this with the at command. First, install it:

sudo apt install at

Then, make the Udev rule look like this:

SUBSYSTEM=="usb", ATTR{idVendor}=="056e", ATTR{idProduct}=="00fb", ACTION=="add", RUN+="/usr/bin/at -M -f /apps/bin/ now"

This tells at to trigger the script to run immediately, but at returns to Udev immediately. The script doesn’t run under Udev but under at. The script looks like this:

#!/usr/bin/env sh
# Called by Udev when Elecom trackball is plugged in
sleep 2
/apps/bin/ 0.1 0.4

Note: at can only run sh scripts, not bash.

But, it still didn’t work. The script ran, but its xinput commands always failed.


I guessed it might be that at, running as root, didn’t have permission for my X session. I had to somehow make it join my X session before the xinput commands would work. I made a script called

#!/usr/bin/env bash

# Get the number of the active terminal (requires root)

# Set env vars needed to simulate the user
export DISPLAY=:${TTY}.0
USER=`who -s | grep "(:$TTY)" | cut -d' ' -f1`
export XAUTHORITY=/home/$USER/.Xauthority

echo "`date`, $USER, $DISPLAY, $XAUTHORITY: $1" >> /apps/bin/joinXandRun.log
bash -c "$1 $2 $3 $4 $5 $6 $7 $8 $9"

This script finds the active X console, and its user and display. Then it sets the critical DISPLAY  and XAUTHORITY environment vars to “join” that X session. Then it runs another script passed into it.

Then I made call this script:

#!/usr/bin/env sh
# Called by Udev when Elecom trackball is plugged in
sleep 2
/apps/bin/ /apps/bin/ 0.1 0.4

Guess what — this worked!

The really cool thing about this is that the Udev rule is device-specific, and takes parameters. I could set this up to auto-detect and configure several different kinds of mice or trackballs. Each would have a different Udev rule, matching different vendor and device IDs, firing different scripts that pass different mouse setting params to This will be useful for my laptop, which uses the Elecom at work but another Logitech Trackman at home.

It turns out all the pieces are essential. Lessons learned:

  • When Udev triggers the add event, the device being added cannot yet be configured. So if your Udev script configures the device, it has to:
    • Return immediately to Udev, so Udev can finish its processing
    • Meanwhile, trigger its config processing to run after a few seconds
  • To configure devices that are part of the X session, you need to “join” the session. Otherwise, the X system won’t let your code configure the device.

PS: none of this is specific to Ubuntu 18. It should work on any recent Linux distro.

Calibre, Amazon Books, DeDRM

I’ve been a big reader since I was a kid, all kinds of books from many sources. I was an early Kindle adopter, but as Android tablets came out I found them better for reading:

  • Configurable: you can set a wider variety of fonts, sizes, margins, colors, layouts.
  • Open: you can install any number of reading apps for every eBook format available. You’re not locked into any single book ecosystem.
  • Graphics: books with pictures, diagrams, etc. are much better on a tablet. Even a large eInk reader lacks color and renders slower.

Due to the variety of books I read, no single ecosystem would do the job. Plus, I take a principled opposition to any company that tries to lock customers into its ecosystem. When I buy a book I don’t believe I’ve bought it to read on a particular device, in a particular format, to access whenever some corporation thinks I should be able to. I’ve bought the right to read it on any device, in any format, whenever I want to, forever. Just like a real book. Indeed, eBooks often cost as much as real books even though the marginal cost of the next eBook sold is zero. And, I run native Linux on all my computers.

All of this all led me to start using Calibre to manage my eBooks. Calibre is simply great – it meets all these needs and more. It’s a great organizer, supports all devices, all formats, can convert between them, and has many plugins with an active open source development community.

Without owning a Kindle, how does one buy books from Amazon, store them on your own computer and read them on any device in any format? Here’s how:

Even though I run Linux, I have a VM running Windows. I don’t use it for much, only those few apps that I can run natively on Linux or in a browser. Unfortunately, Amazon Kindle is one of those. In this VM I have the Kindle for PC app registered to my Amazon account.

I’ll assume you already have Calibre running and you’ve installed Apprentice Alf’s DeDRM plug-in.

Next, do a one-time configuration step: capture the Kindle key from your Windows PC and copy it to Calibre so it can DeDRM Kindle books.

  • On Windows
    • Install Python 2.7 and Pycrypto 2.6 for Python 2.7.
    • Unzip the Calibre DeDRM plug-in ZIP file
    • In this zip, find the file
      • This zip file has several directories and files in it. In DeDRM_6.6.0, this file is here: \DeDRM_Windows_Application\DeDRM_App\DeDRM_lib\lib
    • Open a command prompt and run this file:
    • You’ll see something like this:
      • Using Library AlfCrypto DLL/DYLIB/SO
        searching for kinfoFiles in C:\Users\USERNAME\AppData\Local
        Found K4PC 1.9+ kinf2011 file: C:\Users\USERNAME\AppData\Local\Amazon\Kindle\storage\.kinf2011
        Decrypted key file using IDString ‘406xxxxxxx’ and UserName ’63xxxxxx’
    • It creates a new file: kindlekey1.k4i
    • Copy this file to a directory your Linux Calibre app can see
  • On Linux
    • Run Calibre
    • Click Configure, Plugins, File type plugins, DeDRM
    • Click Customize plugin
    • Click Kindle for Mac/PC ebooks
    • Click Import Existing Keyfiles
    • In the file dialog that pops up, pick your kindlekey1.k4i file

You’re done: Calibre DeDRM is configured to be able to DeDRM ebooks you drop on it, so long as they come from your Kindle for PC reader.

After I buy a book on Amazon, I deliver it to my Kindle for PC device.

  • In Windows:
    • Open Kindle for PC, refresh your library. The book should appear.
    • Double-click it to download it.
    • After the book opens, close it and the Kindle for PC app.
    • Open folder Users\USERNAME\Documents\My Kindle Content
    • Your book will be one of these folders named B….._EBOK
    • Sort by date to put the most recent files on top
    • Open the folder and you’ll see an azw file having the same filename as the folder.
    • Copy this azw file to a directory that your Linux Calibre can see.
  • In Linux
    • Run Calibre and drag/drop the azw file on it.
    • Calibre will strip the DRMs and add it to your library

You now own the book. It’s stored on your own hard drive, you can read it on your PC, convert it to any format you want, copy it to any device or app you want to use to read it.

Escape Velocity

Escape Velocity is commonly described as the minimum speed an object must reach to escape the Earth (or other celestial body) into space. But this definition is ambiguous and can be misleading.

You can escape the Earth at walking speed, if you could walk straight up; you don’t need anywhere near escape velocity. Imagine a rocket launch; in the first few seconds just as it starts to move, it’s going up at walking speed. Theoretically, it could throttle back the engines to maintain that slight upward speed all the way into space, so long as it didn’t run out of fuel or become unstable. A space elevator could also leave Earth at mundane speeds.

The key to this ambiguity is escape velocity applies to a free body, an object that is passively moving according to the laws of physics, having no thrust of its own. In other words, if a rocket achieves escape velocity, it could at that point turn off its engines and it would still escape the Earth. Intuitively it seems the higher the altitude, the slower the escape velocity. This turns out to be correct.

Escape velocity is easy to understand and derive mathematically with some creative thinking. Imagine 2 objects in space (a big one and a much smaller one, like the Earth and a stone) surrounded by vacuum, no other objects. So there is no friction and no other bodies exerting gravitational pull. Suppose the stone is at rest relative to the Earth and almost infinitely far away. The gravitational pull is effectively zero. Imagine the stone precariously balanced just on the outer rim of Earth’s gravity well. Then you nudge the stone just a smidge toward the Earth, so it crosses that rim and the Earth starts pulling on it (and vice versa). It starts out slow, but accelerates toward the Earth incrementally faster and faster.

Eventually, when the stone reaches the Earth it will be moving very fast. Escape velocity is the speed it is going just before it smashes into the Earth. Or if it misses the Earth, it’s the speed at its point of closest approach. More correctly and completely, the stone is always traveling at escape velocity at every moment along its path. The escape velocity for that distance from the Earth, is the speed at which the stone is moving when it’s that far away.

Note: the bold face statement above is the nut of this explanation. When you grok its fullness, you grok the fullness of escape velocity.

That’s because of conservation of energy. When the stone was at the rim of Earth’s gravity well, it had a lot of potential energy. At the point of closest approach, all that potential energy has been converted into kinetic energy. Assuming no atmosphere, no losses, the two energies are equal. So as the stone speeds past the Earth, slowing down due to the same gravitational pull that sucked it in, that kinetic energy is converted back into potential energy. So it must reach the exact same distance away when it peters out and eventually stops.

The direction of motion is irrelevant to escape velocity. Normally this seems counterintuitive, but understanding escape velocity with our theoretical example, you can easily see why direction doesn’t matter. At that point of closest approach, it doesn’t matter what direction the stone is moving relative to the Earth. It could be nearly straight up (can’t be exactly straight up, or it wouldn’t have missed), or nearly horizontal. If it’s going horizontal, it has to travel further to escape, but being horizontal, gravity isn’t pulling it as hard. These conflicting factors are equal and cancel each other. All that matters is the altitude (distance of closest approach), because the speed depends only how much energy it’s gained from Earth’s gravity field.

If, at that point of closest approach, the stone were moving any slower, then it would have less kinetic energy, and it will not go as far away. That means it won’t make it to the rim of Earth’s gravity well, so it will still be inside the well, reverse direction and eventually come back to Earth. So escape velocity is the minimum speed a free body can have, and escape the Earth.

Of course, in the real world direction does matter. The Earth has an atmosphere that creates a lot of friction and energy loss at high speeds. If you go straight up, you’re in the atmosphere for a shorter time, less energy loss. If you go horizontal, you’re in the atmosphere longer and will lose more energy.

Here is the mathematical derivation:


Updating Celestron Telescope Firmware

Here’s how I update the firmware in my Celestron 6SE telescope from my Ubuntu Linux system. There’s another nice guide here, but it didn’t work on my computer until I figured out the trick below of changing the port name.

Kudos to Celestron for writing the software in Java so it can run on any computer, Windows, Mac or Linux!

My scope has a phone-type connector to the handset and came with a cable that is a 9-pin serial on the other end. Plug this cable into your computer’s serial port and into the bottom of the handset. While the scope is off, hold down the handset Celestron & Menu buttons while turning it on. The handset will say Boot Loader Serial or something like that to indicate it’s in firmware update mode.

Now, find the Linux device file for your serial port by entering this command: dmesg | grep tty

My output looks like this; yours may be different:

[    0.000000] console [tty0] enabled
[    0.671956] 00:06: ttyS0 at I/O 0x3f8 (irq = 4, base_baud = 115200) is a 16550A

On my computer, the serial port is /dev/ttyS0

Check this device file’s permissions and ensure you can read & write it. Typically you need to be in the dialout group, or just chmod the device file to 666 to open it to anyone.

Follow Celestron’s instructions to download the CFM software from their web site. Once installed, go to its directory and run it with Java: java -jar CFM.jar

When it starts it will tell you it can’t find the serial port. Select Options|Connections from the menu. In the dialog that appears, you’ll notice it says COM4 (or something similar) as the serial port name. Replace this with ttyS0 (or whatever your port’s name is).

Now click Seek Devices from the app main screen and it will find your telescope. Click the main screen Update button and CFM will find and download the latest firmware for your scope and install it.

How to Shrink Virtualbox VDI Volumes In-Place

In my case, Ubuntu 16 is the host OS, Windows 7 is the guest OS, with Virtualbox 5.0.40.

Before starting, ensure your Virtualbox is a VDI file. VMDK files can’t be resized–though they’re useful for other reasons, being compatible with other virtualization software like VMWare.

First, run the guest OS. Defrag the drive. Defragging crams all the files together with contiguous unused space at the end of the drive instead of scattered around. Then run: sdelete c: -z. You must run this from a command prompt having admin privileges. This step writes zeros across the unused space, which is critical because VirtualBox can’t compact the VDI unless the free space is full of zeroes. The sdelete command takes a long time after reporting 100%, appears to be hung. Be patient and let it finish.

Now shut down the guest OS. From the host OS command line, run: vboxmanage modifyhd file.vdi compact. Here, file.vdi is your VDI file.

Your’e done. The VDI file will be smaller. It will grow automatically as you use more of the guest OS disk space.

Note: don’t use the guest Windows 7 OS file management to shrink the volume. The free space it creates can’t be compacted by VirtualBox.

Tip: Battery Saving for Android 6 and 7

Recently I noticed the location icon sporadically appearing on my Galaxy Note 4 phone for no apparent reason. Something was pinging location. This has a double-whammy on battery: using the GPS (or attempting to without a clear sky), and waking up the phone from sleep. The battery usage screen showed Google Play services as a primary consumer.

The fix took a while to find but it was simple: Google Location History. This is an Android service that periodically checks and logs your location. Google uses this to improve various services like search and maps.

I don’t care about this. Search results and maps work just fine, well enough for me, without having my location history. And I don’t use Google Now. And I don’t like the idea of my phone constantly tracking my location.

Here’s how to disable this, which noticeably extended my battery life:

  • Go to Settings / Location.
  • Scroll down to the Location Services section.
  • Tap Google Location History
  • Tap the slider in the upper right hand of the screen to turn it off.


Galaxy Note 4 Rooted Update

When your phone is rooted, the built-in system update won’t work. It will refuse to update itself. If you want system updates you must install them manually. This is how I do this on my Samsung Galaxy Note 4.

First, back up your phone. You should do a full binary backup with TWRP, and also back up individual apps (and their settings) with Titanium Backup. Do both because each serves a different purpose. A TWRP backup is useful if the update goes awry. It’s a full binary image that restores your phone and all its apps to its prior state. But you can’t restore individual apps. A Titanium backup captures your apps and their setups & data, which can be individually restored into a new system. But it includes apps and system data only, so it doesn’t help if the install goes awry.

In short, if your update is successful you’ll restore your apps from Titanium Backup. If your update fails you’ll restore your entire system from the TWRP backup.

Next, get the latest firmware. You can do that SamMobile. It’s typically a 1-2 GB download because it includes everything: boot loader, modem, Android, Google Apps, etc. After downloading the ZIP, unzip it to get an MD5 file that’s about twice as big.

Next, boot your phone to download mode: turn it off, then press and hold Power, Home and Volume Down. Connect it to a Windows PC (or VM) running Samsung’s Odin app. Make sure Odin recognizes the device when you plug it in. From Odin click the AP button, pick the MD5 file you downloaded from SamMobile and send it to your device. The phone will show a bar graph as the data is sent. When it’s done, Odin will show whether it was successful and the phone will reboot.

Give the phone a long time to reboot; don’t worry if it takes several minutes. When it comes up, all your apps should still be there because Odin doesn’t wipe the data partition. But your phone will no longer be rooted and the TWRP recovery will also be wiped.

To restore TWRP and root, follow a similar process. First download the TWRP tar file. Boot the phone to download mode and used Odin to push it to the device, as above. But this time, before pushing it, disable auto reboot in Odin (it’s on the Options tab). When the TWRP push is done, power off the phone, then boot it to recovery mode: hold Power, Home and Volume Up. It should boot into TWRP. Now you have restored TWRP recovery.

To root the phone, copy the SuperSU ZIP file to the phone. You can do this via a standard USB file transfer to your phone while it’s booted normally, or you can do this while the phone is  booted to TWRP, using adb file push from your PC command line. Then boot to TWRP and install the ZIP. The SuperSU install script will print stuff on the screen; follow the instructions, which is to reboot the phone when the install is done, and let it reboot itself a couple of times to complete the install.

When you’re done, you’ll have the latest OEM firmware update, with TWRP and root. And it should not wipe your data or apps.

Galaxy Note 4: Spurious Wakes and the Home Button

I love my GN4 phone but it has a problem: it wakes up (screen turns on) randomly while in my pocket. When this happens, the screen is on and contact with the inside of my pocket causes spurious random screen touches which is highly dangerous. Not just the risk of butt-dialing people, but it could also change settings, uninstall apps, etc.

The cause is simple. The home button wakes the phone, and it protrudes slightly, so it’s very easy to trigger while in a case or pocket. The best fix would be a system checkbox enabling users to prevent the home button from waking the phone. When disabled, the only way to wake the phone would be the power button, which is quite firm and never is accidentally pushed.

However, Samsung’s response to this is idiotic: “don’t put it in your pocket”. Because Samsung has their heads in the sand (to be polite) on this, users have come up with their own solutions,

One is to install Xposed. But this is a sledgehammer. It works but I didn’t want to deal with it.

Since my device is rooted, I figured there must be some system config text file I could edit to get what I wanted. I didn’t find exactly what I wanted–simply disable wake on the Home button. But I found something close enough that works: swap the Home and Menu buttons.

On my GN4 running T-Mobile Android 6.0.1, the file to edit was: /system/usr/keylayout/Generic.kl

Change two lines:

key 172 HOME
key 254 APP_SWITCH

So they read:

key 254 HOME
key 172 APP_SWITCH


The App Switch (Menu) button will now be Home button, and vice versa. And the Home button will not wake the phone. Nor will the Menu or any other button. The only way to wake the phone will be to press the power button.

My phone no longer randomly wakes up in my pocket. No more butt-dialing, accidentally rearranged home screens, uninstalled apps, or hot phone. No more wasted battery consumption. It’s a bit strange to get used to swapped Menu & Home buttons, but the benefits are worth it.

Note: I tried editing /system/usr/keylayout/gpio-keys.kl and removing the WAKE_DROPPED indicator. Disabling the home button’s WAKE feature without remapping buttons would be ideal. But this didn’t work; it had no effect. Apparently it worked in prior versions of Android, but Samsung changed the way keys are mapped in 6.0.1.